A walk through Novi Sad’s old town: Liberty Square, Zmaj Jovina and Dunavska
One square, two pedestrian streets and a handful of churches – the compact heart of Novi Sad is best seen on foot, at an easy pace, with a coffee stop or two.
· 6 min read
Start at Liberty Square
Trg slobode, or Liberty Square, is where Novi Sad meets. It is the natural starting point for any walk, and you will probably cross it several times a day without trying. Two buildings face each other across the square and set the tone for the whole centre.
On one side stands the City Hall, a neo-Renaissance building finished in 1895 and designed by architect Đorđe (György) Molnár. Across from it rises the Name of Mary Church, a Catholic church in neo-Gothic style with a tall tower and a roof covered in colourful glazed tiles – look up to see the pattern. Inside, the stained glass windows are worth a few quiet minutes.
In the middle of the square is the monument to Svetozar Miletić, a 19th-century mayor and political leader of the Serbs in Vojvodina. The statue is the work of the sculptor Ivan Meštrović and has been a meeting point for generations: “see you at Miletić” is a phrase every local understands.
Zmaj Jovina and the Bishop’s Palace
From the square, follow Zmaj Jovina Street, a short pedestrian street named after the poet Jovan Jovanović Zmaj, whose seated statue you will pass along the way. The street is lined with cafés, bakeries and shops in low, pastel-coloured buildings, and it stays lively until late.
At the end of Zmaj Jovina you reach the Bishop’s Palace (Vladičanski dvor), the residence of the Serbian Orthodox bishop. It was completed in 1901 and is hard to miss with its red brick, decorative details and small domes. Right behind it is the Orthodox Cathedral of St George, rebuilt in its present form in the early 20th century after the city was badly damaged during the bombardment of 1849.
Dunavska Street and the side lanes
Turn onto Dunavska Street, one of the oldest streets in the city. It is narrower and calmer than Zmaj Jovina, with antique shops, small galleries and terraces tucked into the courtyards. The street leads down towards the Danube Park, so it connects nicely with a riverside walk.
Don’t be afraid to get lost in the passages and side streets between Dunavska, Zmaj Jovina and Pašićeva. Many courtyards hide bars, bookshops and quiet gardens that you would never notice from the main street.
Where to pause
The old town is made for slow mornings and long evenings. Grab a coffee on a terrace on Zmaj Jovina, try a pastry from one of the local bakeries, or end the walk with dinner in the side streets. Everything is close enough that you can do the full loop in an hour, but most people take half a day without noticing.
